Denali West Buttress Route. May 31, 2021 · Mount Denali often has brutal conditions addin

May 31, 2021 · Mount Denali often has brutal conditions adding to the challenge. The fixed lines above 14 Camp involve about 800 feet of ascending which is usually on hard glacial ice. I was looking for the full expedition experience and this route definitely seems to fit the bill – hauling gear to camps higher and higher up the mountain before attempting a summit push will be quite a challenge! Here’s a day-to-day sample itinerary from the Alpine, Read More May 19, 2024 · We discussed ideas, like heading up the West Buttress progressively higher each day to acclimatize. The West Buttress is the easiest way to climb Denali. McKinley West Buttress climbing route on to the Peters Glacier. The definitive expedition blueprint for Denali's West Buttress. May 7, 2002 · The standard route on Denali is the West Buttress, or as I prefer to call it, “the Washburn Route,” named after its discoverer, Bradford Washburn. John and Olivia race have led 33 expeditions to the summit of Denali, the highest peak in North America reaching the summit on 27 of those trips. The climbing guidebook covers every aspect of climbing the route -- from preparation to climbing strategy to step-by-step route instruction. " The West Rib was first climbed June 19, 1959 by the Jackson Hole climbers: Sinclair, Breitenbach, Corbet, and Buckingham. A skier from Washington state was killed in an avalanche on Denali’s West Buttress on Tuesday, according to a statement from Denali National Park and Preserve. The climb is a steady and gradual ascent over a period of days, and we emphasize proper acclimatization for our team members. Technical Difficulties Although the West Buttress is not thought of as a technical route, there are some sections of the route that require physical conditioning outside of walking on moderate slopes with heavy loads. Norma Jean's successful solo capped more than a decade of summit attempts that began when she was a teenager. First climbed in 1951 the route covers a whopping 16. Jul 31, 2023 · By Dr. Here, we begin to experience a high-mountain environment, as we continue to form into a high-functioning team and build the “flow” that we will need higher on the mountain. West Buttress : SummitPost. This is a huge direct line for those climbers wishing to push their limits a little more but still stay in proximity to the core climbing area and network of West Buttress route. 3 mi, with an elevation gain of 16,335 ft. Here, teams acclimatize, settle into expedition life, and prepare for a “double carry,” caching food and equipment to ease the move up to Camp 2. Transportation from Anchorage International Airport to Talkeetna costs $75 The trip spanned May 23, 2024, to June 16, 2024, along the classic West Buttress route. Book your expedition now! May 7, 2002 · The standard route on Denali is the West Buttress, or as I prefer to call it, “the Washburn Route,” named after its discoverer, Bradford Washburn. [4] The West Buttress route, while considered the “easiest” path to the top, still demands exceptional physical conditioning and mountaineering expertise. Route details & photos Route details & photos Denali West Buttress – Virtual Tour Though not the route of the first ascent party, the West Buttress has become by far the most popular on Denali / Mt. alaskasnewssourcemore The West Buttress route on Mt. During the three-week-long journey, funded in part by Sealaska’s philanthropy program, the AKMW crew will create multiple base camps and live on the glacier, traveling by two rope teams of three via the West Buttress, a route that the majority of climbers on Denali attempt. Beautiful weather is predicted for the rest of the week, allowing our teams on the mountain to make more upward progress! Denali's West Buttress: A Climber's Guide gives the aspiring Denali climber the details required to efficiently plan and safely launch an expedition on the West Buttress. Solo climber dies in fall on Denali's West Buttress route For more Local News from KTUU: https://www. The West Buttress of Denali is the classic mountaineering route for most climbers looking to climb Denali. Traverse a tricky slope above crevasses at Windy Corner, then make the final, gentle climb to Camp 3. Denali is a mountaineer’s mountain; it is serious and challenging. Depending on time, weather, route conditions, and energy level, we may opt to make our cache at the top of the fixed lines or travel higher along the West Buttress towards 17K Camp before caching. Our aim to climbing Mount Denali was to take the West Buttress route over the course of 2-3 weeks. You will need to know how to use crampons and an ice axe, tie a range of climbing knots, take part in crevasse rescue, orientate yourself in the outdoors, pitch tents on snow and use an ascender device Jun 5, 2025 · Although the West Buttress is considered the easiest and most accessible route on Denali—and is the route chosen by over 90 percent of Denali hopefuls—it still entails a variety of hazards Climbing The West Buttress The easiest route up Denali is the West Buttress. McKinley. From layering systems to sled setups, here’s how to pack smart for North America’s tallest peak. Denali West Buttress Denali West Buttress High Camp, 17,200′ Arriving at High Camp, climbers can often see only the tops of tents, the rest hidden behind high snow-block walls. All trips are run through Alpine Ascents, a licensed concession in Denali National Park. May 8, 2022 · Rangers locate climber’s body on Denali - Alaska Public Media Matthias Rimml likely fell on the steep traverse between Denali Pass at 18,200 feet and the 17,200-foot plateau, a notoriously treacherous stretch of the West Buttress route, officials said. And it is. McKinley, Alaska: Mount Mckinley is known in Alaska as Denali, meaning 'The High One'. Expeditions fly from Talkeetna to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier Sep 4, 2017 · This video highlights an incredible trip to the summit of Denali (20,310 ft), the highest peak in North America, via the West Buttress route. from publication: Experimental Gaia GPS | © OpenStreetMap contributors Denali West Buttress Route It is rare that a team or climber comes to Mount McKinley expecting a solitary experience, especially on the West Buttress. Denali's landscape is a mix of forest at the lowest elevations, including deciduous taiga. Jun 27, 2014 · Mt. He and AMS director Colby Coombs wrote the definitive guidebook on how to climb every step of the way (Denali’s West Buttress: A Climber’s Guide to Mt. The West Buttress, West Rib, and Cassin Ridge are the most frequently climbed routes on Denali. We unfortunately didn't get Jan 19, 2017 · The Human Variable The human variable is something to definitely consider. Dec 11, 2017 · On December 2, 1980, a 2,146,580 acre (8,687 km2) Denali Wilderness was established within the park. May 31, 2021 · 2012 Summit of Mt McKinley (Denali) - West Buttress Route Overview Lee Hoedl 3. The easiest way to get to the basecamp is via air taxi from Talkeetna, Alaska and the most logical way to get to Talkeetna if travelling from out of state is via Anchorage, Alaska. Alex Chui, aged 41 of Seattle, Washington, died as a result of a 3,000-foot fall from the Mt. Available for both RF and RM licensing. In each of the following sections, you will find a summary of the route, including elevation gains and distances as well as photos from each portion of the route. McKinley's classic route by Coombs, Colby Publication date 1997 Topics Mountaineering Publisher Seattle, WA : Mountaineers Collection internetarchivebooks; americana; inlibrary; printdisabled Contributor Internet Archive Language English Item Size 292. The West Rib (yellow)and Cassin Ridge (green) are also shown. A huge thanks t May 31, 2021 · Mount Denali often has brutal conditions adding to the challenge. Worst of all, she had no one to help ease her fears as she edged past a dead climber just below the summit. We begin by ascending the steep slope morbidly nicknamed “The Autobahn” to gain Denali Pass, then proceed up and across the Football Field before reaching the final corniced ridge leading to the summit of North America. So, we would all go up the West Buttress route, and after summiting, would split off. It involves 15. Bad weather has halted a search for a 41-year-old mountaineer who remains missing after falling Monday off the West Buttress of Denali. With the growing popularity of the Seven Summits, Mount McKinley's West Buttress route can have as many as 500 to 600 climbers on it during the peak of the climbing season from late May through early June. Jun 4, 2025 · The upper portion of Denali's West Buttress route. The following questions and answers about the Denali West Buttress route and American Alpine Institute’s Denali program have been compiled over the years by our program coordinators and guides. De naam Mount McKinley, die van 1917 tot 2015, en sinds 2025 Jul 10, 2024 · If you’re planning to attempt Denali – on any route including the West Buttress – then you will need to have some mountaineering skills. Apr 8, 2021 · During the three-week-long journey, funded in part by Sealaska’s philanthropy program, the AKMW crew will create multiple base camps and live on the glacier, traveling by two rope teams of three via the West Buttress, a route that the majority of climbers on Denali attempt. May 21, 2024 · A solo climber died on Monday after falling from Denali’s West Buttress Route, according to Denali National Park Rangers. You'll refine advanced mountaineering skills Denali’s West Buttress route requires that we spend many long, hard days above 14,000 feet. After a 3000-foot ascent, climbers often arrive at 17,200 feet to find a fortified camp. Denali West Buttress Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, and Windy Corner From Camp 2, ascend Motorcycle Hill to views of the Peters Basin, then continue up Squirrel Hill’s scenic, exposed flank to the open flats of the Polo Field. 5 miles. Jun 4, 2025 · The 41-year-old man from Seattle was unroped when he fell 3,000 feet from the West Buttress route onto the Peters Glacier in Denali National Park and Preserve. Stefan was fairly nauseous, looked like shit, and spent the day in the tent, only making an appearance once during the dinner portion of hangtime to eat a small bit of food. The West Buttress Route of Denali was established by Bradford Washburn's team in 1951 and was dubbed "the safest and easiest route to the summit. Experience the thrill of climbing one of the Seven Summits. Embrace the social aspects of all the other climbers, as you are all in it together! Find the perfect west buttress route stock photo, image, vector, illustration or 360 image. While the technical difficulties of the route are minimal, the sustained nature and First Ascent of West Buttress Route on Mount Denali -1951 in Anchorage Alaska- Bradford Washburn and seven others establishing the West Buttress route on Mount Denali in 1951 marked a significant achievement in Alaska's mountaineering history. Led by an AMGA certified mountain guide, ascend this 6190m summit via the West Buttress route. 5 miles and about 13,500 feet of gain, and the total time required to summit and return is from fourteen to thirty days. 5 miles of horizontal distance and 13,570ft of ascent from the air strip. Apr 13, 2015 · I’ve been reading up more on the West Buttress route up Denali. Dive into our virtual tour, and the reasons will become obvious. Denali West Buttress Denali West Buttress The Fixed Lines and the Ridge to High Camp From Camp 3 we climb to the very crest of the West Buttress, using fixed lines for the steep upper headwall. 42 likes, 0 comments - nolsedu on January 16, 2026: "Are you looking for the challenge of a lifetime? Join NOLS in June to climb North America’s tallest peak— Denali. How hard is Mount Denali: West Buttress? Mount Denali: West Buttress is considered a hard hike that covers 35. A data-driven guide to strategy, logistics, and the gear you need to succeed. Nearby Attractions: Denali National Park visitor centers Wonder Lake scenic viewing Savage River loop trail Talkeetna historic district Flightseeing tours from Talkeetna Instagram Instagram Instagram Instagram Denali, West Buttress climbers between approximately 9,800 and 11,600 feet this afternoon. The West Buttress was first climbed by our close friend Dr. a. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Bradford Washburn. Many believe that Denali, with its altitude, extreme cold, and the weight that every climber is responsible for, is the hardest of the Seven. 5M Includes bibliographical references (p Whether you are challenging the West Buttress or learning crevasse rescue on the lower Kahiltna Glacier, these titles will greatly enhance your experience and appreciation of Alaska! OutOfOfficeDays HP#3 Denali via West Buttress - Summited May 29, 2023 Sort by: Best Add a Comment OutOfOfficeDays Oct 31, 1997 · Seasoned guide Colby Coombs and legendary mountaineering photographer Bradford Washburn teamed up to provide climbers with information devoted solely to this challenging route. The expedition climbed the mountain from the north via the Karsten's Ridge route across the Muldrow Glacier, a less-expensive route up the mountain but more remote and much less used than the standard West Buttress route. Aug 24, 2011 · Denali's West Buttress : a climber's guide to Mt. Ascending Mount Denali, in Alaska, is a dream for mountaineers. Body of Fallen Ski Mountaineer Located and Recovered DENALI PARK AK (June 4, 2025) The body of a deceased ski mountaineer was recovered on the morning of Wednesday, June 4. McKinley was pioneered in 1951 by Dr. To have a good chance of success, you’ll need comparable experiences. Mar 18, 2020 · The West Buttress Route on Denali is NOT considered a technical climbing route, but it IS a mountaineering route on which you need to have what we consider basic climbing/mountaineering skills. 79K subscribers Like During the three-week-long journey, funded in part by Sealaska’s philanthropy program, the AKMW crew will create multiple base camps and live on the glacier, traveling by two rope teams of three via the West Buttress, a route that the majority of climbers on Denali attempt. Lea Hartl On February 20th, 1989, a three-person team of Japanese mountaineers climbing the West Buttress route on Denali reached High Camp at 5243 m. Book your expedition now! The definitive expedition blueprint for Denali's West Buttress. Our Denali Traverse climb ascends the West Buttress route to the summit of Denali and then descends the spectacular Karstens Ridge down to the Muldrow Glacier. Mar 13, 2020 · Here's my unguided May-June 2018 Denali expedition edit where my group, Minnerado consisted of three splitboarders and one skier. Jun 10, 2025 · Denali 2025 Slides Prior to leaving, Bryan and Andreea decided that the West Rib would probably be too much. Take a virtual tour of the Denali West Buttress route! De Denali in 3D De Denali is gelegen in Alaska en is met zijn 6194 meter de hoogste berg in Noord-Amerika. Join Mountain Trip on the classic West Buttress route to summit Denali, North America’s highest peak. Led by NOLS senior mountaineering instructors, this iconic 20,310ft mountain will be your home for nearly a month as you attempt to summit via the iconic West Buttress route. May 21, 2024 · The solo climber was found dead Monday at 17,000 feet of elevation on Denali's West Buttress route. The West Buttress is the least technical ascent route; the primary climbing difficulties are crevasses, steep ice, exposed ice-covered ridges, and, of course, the environment. It is definitely a demanding expedition, but the satisfaction will be immense! McKinley Expedition Gear Guide: What to Pack for McKinley’s West Buttress Get expedition-ready with this expert gear guide for climbing McKinley via the West Buttress. But most agree on both the beauty and the seriousness of climbing Denali. It takes about 24 hr+ to complete. First of all, wrap your head around the fact that the West Buttress route is not really a wilderness experience unless you head up in April. Cody and I going for the West Rib, and Andreea and Bryan would go try to get some more skiing in or head out. s. Aug 8, 2025 · The West Rib is a step down in difficulty from its neighboring Cassin, but it is substantially harder than the West Buttress route. Download scientific diagram | The most popular route (normal routes) leading to the Denali summit – West Buttress (Source: compiled by the author, Google Maps). 6 days ago · She could not clip into fixed ropes that others used on the steepest sections of the West Buttress route. The Muldrow Glacier route on the north side of the mountain is just as technically demanding, but does not have an option of flying into a base camp, making the approach very long. Oct 20, 2019 · For some, summiting via the West Buttress is a lifetime achievement, for others it might be a way to acclimatise for a harder route. Climbing Denali is on every 7 summiteers mind and one of the hardest mountains to climb for a range of reasons. The summit team may spend only a couple nights here, but conditions can force a much longer stay. The West Buttress route is characterized by massive snow-covered glaciers, exposed ridges, and breathtaking views that change every day. Denali West Buttress Denali Summit Day In a grueling 13-14 hour push from High Camp, we climb 3,120 feet over just 2. De berg is gelegen in het midden van het Denali Nationaal Park. Denali is one of the storied Seven Summits. It's the highest mountain peak in North America with an elevation of 20,237 ft. Oct 31, 1997 · Denali's West Buttress: A Climber's Guide gives the aspiring Denali climber the details required to efficiently plan and safely launch an expedition on the West Buttress. org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering Basecamp is at 7,200 feet on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Denali's West Buttress: A Climber's Guide gives the aspiring Denali climber the details required to efficiently plan and safely launch an expedition on the West Buttress. The route as drawn and described here is for 14k Camp to the summit which makes up what most people refer to as the West Buttress. Denali West Buttress Denali West Buttress Camp 2, 11,200′ The 3,200-foot climb to Camp 2 takes the team from the broad valley glacier up into an enclosed cirque below a gentle icefall. The West Buttress Route: the red triangles denote camps; the red squares, alternative camps. A variety of terrain, relative safety, and sections of intense beauty make this route one of the world’s classic climbs. A google Earth tour of the West Buttress Route on DenaliSee a video of my experience here: https://youtu. De naam Denali, die vóór 1917, en van 2015 tot 2025 gebruikt werd, betekent "de Hoge" in het Koyukon, een aan de Yukon gesproken Athabaskische taal uit Alaska. . We ascend in traditional expedition style. With the expert guidance of AAI and a stellar team, Scott and his crew reached the summit on Day 19. Conquer Denali Mount McKinley via the West Buttress with expert guides in Alaska. At 17,200 feet, this is a harsh, storm-prone environment with brutal winds and freezing temperatures. Denali • West Buttress • 22 Days Mountain Gurus climbs the classic West Buttress route, which was pioneered by the legendary mountaineer Bradford Washburn in 1951. Jun 4, 2025 · A 41-year-old Washington mountaineer is missing after a fall on the Denali, search efforts are currently underway for the Denali climber. Feb 4, 2016 · I know that this is a loaded question but I'm going to ask, is there a "better" time to climb Denali via the West Buttress with the most success rate? I know that the weather plays a lot in to this and it can not be controlled but I am looking for others opinion of when they climbed it and if the Jun 4, 2025 · A 41-year-old Washington mountaineer is missing after a fall on the Denali, search efforts are currently underway for the Denali climber. be/SBv2g2Wyujk Denali West Buttress Denali West Buttress Camp 1, 7800′ Situated at 7,800 feet, just before the route up the Kahiltna Glacier steepens, Camp 1 on the Denali West Buttress is a vital staging area. Welcome! Alaska Handbook provides one of the most comprehensive resources for those who love the great state of Alaska. Jun 11, 2025 · Washington state resident Nicholas Vizzini, 29, was confirmed dead after he and his climbing partner triggered the avalanche while descending the slope. Jan 2, 2009 · June 2008 - Annotated Google Earth shot showing our route up the West Buttress, including common camps and the camps we used (red dots). She could not clip into fixed ropes that others used on the steepest sections of the West Buttress route. The ensuing ridge climb is sublime, with dramatic exposure and some modest technical challenges. [4][5] Despite most men in the team suffering from some level of altitude sickness, the climbers made good progress up the Dec 18, 2025 · Where is Mount Denali: West Buttress located? Mount Denali: West Buttress is a trail located in Denali National Park. In this video, we take you along the entire West Buttress route in under 15 minutes — every camp, every crevasse, every deadly section, and every story of survival and tragedy. He once held the record for the fastest ascent and descent on Denali 's West Buttress route, making the round trip to the summit and back in 23 hours, 55 minutes; [1] he was the first known person to ascend and descend in less than 24 hours. McKinley’s Classic Route, Mountaineers Books). Learn about costs, routes, and preparation for your summit expedition. After leaving our loads, we return to 14K Camp for the evening.

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